Blog - Life on Four Legs

27/03 |

6 top tips for puppy socialisation during the lock down

This week a huge number of vet colleagues and friends have contacted me for advice. We all know the importance of socialising our puppies – but now Coronavirus lock down has come along and put a stop to our best made plans. What should we be doing in these strange and worrying times to help our puppies have the best chance of developing into well balanced adults?

When reading this list – please remember to ensure your puppy is comfortable with what we are doing. Their body language should be loose and wiggly! Puppies should be allowed to move away from anything they find worrying and not lured towards something frightening with a treat. You can of course use food to reward calm behaviour.

Fun walks in the park with our dogs may be on hold for now. There are still we can help our puppies adapt to their new life.

Make being alone normal

It is important we start leaving them for short periods in the first week. These sessions should be short and positive. Consider using a Kong or similar chew proof puzzle feeder in the periods they are left. As we are on lock down, use a room where they can’t see or hear you! A top tip I give clients is to monitor them using a camera to start with (webcam / ipad / smart phone) to make sure the puppy is doing ok.

Similarly, during the day – ensure your puppy is having some rest periods. With kids at home, it is tempting to let them entertain each other constantly. But puppies do need rest. And they need to learn it’s not normal to have fun stuff happen all day every day.

Introduce ‘new’ people

Ok so this is going to be a tricky one! You should not be letting anyone not in your household to come within 2 metres of your puppy. When out on the street – reward them for walking past people calmly. Inside you are going to have to get creative and try to recreate different types of people! Raid the kid’s dressing up box and get them used to helmets, walking sticks, hats, backpacks, heavy boots, fluoro vests etc. Walk strangely, clap, laugh, dance, hug!

Make handling fun

Your puppy is going to need to be handled by lots of different people in their lives. Start now pairing handling of face / feet / tummy etc with something yummy for them. If you have nail clippers and hair clippers – you should be introducing puppies to these now.

Sounds don’t need to be scary

We are lucky to have some great resources to help you do this from home. My favourite are the Sound Proof Puppy App and Sounds Scary from the Dog’s Trust

Mix up textures

We expect our puppies to be fine walking on drain covers, slippery floors, tiles, concrete, grass etc. So look for these surfaces on your daily walk, or see what you have in your house already and use these to create fun obstacle courses for your pup in the garden to walk on.

‘Introduce’ other dogs.

This is a hard one as play with others is going to be really restricted for the foreseeable future. If you have another dog in the house who is behaviourally appropriate – then let them have some play time each day (although make sure the adult dog can escape for periods too!) We can also reward your puppy for walking calmly past another dog when on your daily walk. We can introduce the sound of dogs via apps and online noises and the smells by letting your puppy sniff around on walks.

In my next blog I’ll be covering some ways we can keep our dogs entertained during this time of lock down – so watch this space.

If anyone would like some 1 : 1 advice, I am offer 30 minute new puppy virtual behaviour consults for £50, or 60 minute ones for £90, contact me for more info.

And most importantly – stay safe everyone and look after each other 🙂
Julie

Dr Julie Ashton, BSc, BVSc, MANZCVs (Vet Behaviour) MRCVS
Behaviour Vet – Life on Four Legs

31/01 |

The dreaded cage rest!!!!!

You have an active dog that enjoys walking, running, sniffing, chasing balls and generally living life to the max. Then something happens, maybe they have ruptured their cruciate, broken a limb or a multitude of other injuries and now they have to spend the next 4-6 weeks in a cage on strict cage rest. How on earth are you both going to cope?! This is something I get contacted about a lot… So here are my 7 top tips for ensuring you both end the cage rest period with your sanity in tact.

Active dogs like Lulu can find being cage rested a stress

1. Brain games

Think about how your dog would have spent their day prior to cage rest – walking, running, snuffing and using their brain in a myriad of ways. Now, they have not much to think about. Boredom can lead to stress, frustration and a general negative emotional state. So, now we have to think of fun ways to engage their brain.

Start with feeding enrichment. This could be licky mats, Kongs or more traditional puzzle feeders (some nice ones are made by Nina Ottosson, Kong and Buster to name a few). These can keep a dog interested for good periods of time. Just ensure that a) they don’t eat the puzzle (I’m watching you Mr Labrador!!) and b) the puzzle itself doesn’t cause frustration. Start easy and then make it harder over time.

For a different post, but remember cats need games too!!

2. Reward calm behaviours

When your dog offers calm – such as lying down and chilling- make sure you reinforce them. A quiet, calm ‘good dog’ might be all you can offer, as for many dogs much more can excite them and they stop relaxing.

3. Make sure the crate is comfortable!

I know this is an obvious one, but it is so important that the dog has a supportive surface to lie on, especially if they are sore after surgery. If in doubt try it out yourself. If they are used to being in the family home, please don’t put them away ‘out of the way’… This will likely cause stress. (You would be surprised how many people crate rest the family cavoodle who is used to sleeping on the bed in the garage!)

4. Do some training

Disclaimer to this one – please clear it with your vet first. Many dogs can still do training when they are being cage rest and enjoy both interacting with you and using their brains! Some simple things to train can include: ‘touch’, ‘chin holds’, face holds, leave it (not with their dinner… another thing that will cause frustration) etc.

5. Do some massage

Lots of dogs enjoy massage / touch. If your dog is one of those, they might enjoy a nice quiet massage session with them to relax.

6. Pheromones and supplements.

Adaptil is a synthetic version of dog appeasement pheromone and can help dogs feel less anxious in lots of situations. Place a diffuser by their crate, ensuring good air circulation.

There are also certain supplements or nutraceuticals which might help some dogs. Always chat to your vet first to ensure these are suitable for your pet.

Recovering from surgery can be a stress on all members of the family

7. Medication

For some dogs, crating is very stressful and the above just doesn’t help. If your dog is struggling at home, please chat to your Veterinarian. There are many effective anxiolytics that can help them through this tough time!

Good luck! If you need further help, please feel free to contact me. A phone consultation for some troubleshooting or advice may be really helpful!

Julie x

Dr Julie Ashton, BSc, BVSc (Hons), MANZCVs (Veterinary Behaviour), MRCVS

Dr Julie is a behaviour vet who is passionate about collaborative care.

22/11 |

Looking for top tips on keeping your pet’s coat shiny and healthy?

I was recently asked to help contribute to an article about ways in which to keep your pet’s coat in great condition 🙂

For me, as someone who sees a lot of anxious dogs and cats, getting your pets used to grooming equipment at a young age is key! Always make the introduction positive (and below the threshold at which they get anxious) and pair it with something good (a treat, a pat etc).

Things to focus on include:
– Introducing a brush / comb.
– Introducing clippers – first just the sound from a distance and then the feel of the vibration on their skin (if you don’t have clippers, you can use the ‘Sound Proof Puppy App’.
– The feel of water on their skin
– The sound and feel of the hair dryer
– Nail clippers
– Getting your pet used to being handled all over (including tummy, face and feet).

If you have an older pet who is already anxious, it’s not too late! We can often work to reduce their anxiety and help them to realise that being groomed isn’t as stressful as they might think – so don’t dispair!

For more top tips and to see my contribution then read on 🙂

http://www.advantagepetcare.com.au/en/pet-health/keeping-pet-coat-healthy-shiny/

09/09 |

Is your dog or cat behaving strangely? Could it have a paralysis tick?

As a Vet in Sydney tick paralysis is always on my radar, increasingly so as the weather heats up. Just this week one of my clients found a tick on their dog – so they are most certainly about!

Ticks come in a number of varieties and many pose no harm to pets. One that is dangerous though is Ixodes holocyclus (Paralysis ticks to you and me). These are commonly found along the eastern coast of Australia, thriving in hot and humid conditions. They are most common between September and April, but let’s be honest, it’s hardly ever actually cold in Sydney meaning Paralysis ticks can strike all year round.

What do they look like?

Paralysis ticks can range from tiny (1-2mm) to quite big (1cm or more) depending on the age of the tick and how much blood they have ingested! Small and blue-grey in colour, they can look like warts (or even nipples!!) until you examine them closely.

Picture from www.virbac.com.au.

What are the signs of tick paralysis?

Paralysis ticks contain a toxin that can be fatal to dogs and cats. It is a progressive disease, which can be fatal, but happily an anti-toxin does exist. The prognosis is much better when we catch them early, so it is crucial to be alert to symptoms.

Signs to look for include:

Change in voice, a different bark or miaow
Coughing, regurgitating, salivating or vomiting
Wobbliness in the back legs this will progress to the front legs as the toxin starts to take hold.
Increased effort when breathing
Excessive lethargy, lying down and not wanting to walk, jump etc

What should I do?

Use a tick prevention product. A number of brands are available including oral tablets (monthly or every three months), spot on treatments (applied every two weeks), sprays or collars. Please always check suitability of the product you pick – some dog products are toxic to cats!
Check daily – Even if you are using tick prevention, you should be checking your pets all over daily – twice a day if you are in a high risk area! If your pet is unhappy being handled in certain places, contact Dr Julie for some top tips on making them more comfortable!
If you have a long-haired dog or cat, consider clipping to make searching for ticks easier! (and also for them to cool down in the summer!)
Although cute – try finding a 0.5cm paralysis tick in Henry’s tail! Impossible!!!!

I think my dog or cat has a paralysis tick – what should I do?

If you ever find a tick on your dog or cat, I always recommend getting it checked by your Vet as soon as possible for it to be identified, treated as needed and also to check there are no more that you have missed. If your regular vet is closed, find an out-of-hours clinic.

Do not let your pet drink or eat anything until you arrive and they have been checked by a vet and on the way try to prevent them becoming stressed or over excited. Keep them calm and cool 🙂

Dr Julie is a Veterinarian and runs Life on Four Legs – a Veterinary Behaviour house call service, based in Sydney, NSW.

10/07 |

Did they just eat that?? – Dealing with a poo eating pooch!

Unthinkable to humans, coprophagia (that’s eating poo if you don’t speak vet!) is actually more common in dogs than most people realise. For some dogs it’s their own poo that is too tempting to turn down, for others it’s the poo of another dog, cat or different animal altogether (horse, rabbit, possum… the list goes on) that floats their boat.

Although common in dogs, coprophagia is extremely rare in cats

Why on earth would your dog eat poo?

There are a variety of reasons dogs can choose to eat poop:

Medical: such as a problem with their digestion, or an issue making them have an increased appetite.
Poor diet: dogs fed a diet lacking in certain nutrients or fibre may look to get their nutrition elsewhere.
Exploration: lacking prehensile fingers/thumbs, puppies have to explore their environment with their mouths! Popping poop in their mouth is likely part of this normal exploration.
Cleanliness: bitches will eat their puppies poop to keep the den clean. There may be a subset of dogs who eat poop as a behaviour learned from mum.
‘To destroy the evidence’: if puppies have been punished for pooping before (e.g. indoors) they may learn to eat it so as to avoid the consequences, or the behaviour encouraged after their faces have been rubbed in it after an accident in the house.
Unintended rewards: acting horrified, or chasing your puppy/dog may actually reward it and make the whole thing fun. Let’s do that again!
Scavenging: Maybe that possum poo is more delicious than we realise?!

So what should you do?

As always, especially if the problem has just started in an adult dog, it is worth having your pet examined by your veterinarian to ensure there is nothing physically wrong. They will discuss your pet’s diet to identify any nutrient deficiencies and confirm there is enough fibre present. Blood, stool and urine sampling may also be performed.

Once medical and diet issues have been ruled out we can assume the issue is a behavioural one.

Step one is to prevent free access to poo! Make sure your garden is spotlessly a poo free zone and keep an eye on them in the park. For the first few weeks keeping them on a lead in the park is likely to set you up for success.

Walking you pet on a lead will help you have control over their poop eating ways for the first few weeks of training

Next, begin asking your dog to come to you and sit after they have done their business for a special food treat. You could try keeping a diary or your pet’s poop habits – as many dogs are creatures of habit. This will prevent you having to go out with them to the garden every time they go!

You could also try putting something horrible tasting on the poo (such as hot sauce, or one of the commercially available products…) However these have notoriously poor success rates. After all the dog is already eating poo…. How much worse can it get?!!!

Finally make sure your pet’s behavioural needs are being met in other ways. What about trying a puzzle feeder or a Kong? Make sure they are getting enough play and walk time and you could try doing some positive reinforcement training or some nose work to add some more entertainment to their lives.

If you have any questions about a poop eating pooch, or any other behaviour questions, please contact Dr Julie

20/04 |

Is your dog barking mad?

“I think I need to get a bark collar…”

These are words often uttered by new clients. They have been researching ways to deal with barking dogs and all too often this is the blanket solve all advice received from pet shops, dog friends, Dr Google or their own Veterinarian. Whether it be collars puffing citronella into a dog’s face when they (or another dog, trust me I’ve seen it!) bark, or those delivering an electric shock, owners look at them as an effective way to change the problem barking.

But do they really work? Will they fix the issue? Well first we should consider why dogs bark in the first place.

Why is my dog barking?

Adult wolves, the ancestors of our furry friends, hardly ever bark. It is a communication that is nearly always the sole haunt of their pups. During domestication studies have concluded we have selected for wolves with ‘baby’ like characteristics. Meaning we have selected for dogs that bark! On top of this, we have developed dogs with different barks as well as some that seem to bark with little or no stimulus!

Barking is a form of vocal communication, of which dogs have many forms – including whining, howling, whimpering and growling. It is used in a number of different situations, including:

Being excited or playing
When stressed or anxious
During hunting or herding
Sometimes it can mean there is a medical problem (such as cognitive dysfunction or doggy dementia, pain or a neurological problem)
Attention seeking
Because it has been reinforced in the past (e.g. when scared by someone approaching who has subsequently left).
Territorial protection

Some dogs bark during play

So why is barking such a big problem?

Increasing urbanization has brought people into ever closer confines. With close living comes new problems, including the need for neighbourly consideration. Many people (especially neighbours it seems….) unreasonably expect dogs never to bark!

However for some dogs barking changes from something that happens every now and again to something that becomes more of a problem behaviour and can lead to distress for the dog, neighbours, family members and in severe cases council complaints.

So what can be done?

In short, usually a lot! But exactly what depends on the situation! As we have seen barking happens for a number of reasons. Therefore ‘problem barking’ is never a diagnosis only ever a symptom and so there is no one thing that can help each case – the approach needs to be individual. A bark collar (even a citronella one) placed on an already anxious or stressed dog could make matters worse not better, so please think twice before automatically reaching for it!

Using a bark collar on an already stressed dog could make them have a face as sad as Callie’s!!

Is your dog receiving enough playtime or walking? Is it bored? Would a change in location help? – for example if the dog is barking in the back garden when you are out – could you leave it somewhere else? Could your dog be in pain? Is it suffering from separation related distress? Once you figure out why the barking is occurring you will be much more successful at stopping it! For some dogs the answer may be as easy as teaching a simple ‘quiet’ command, however for others, a more complex look at it’s mental health may be in order.

If your dog is barking excessively, then please contact Dr Julie, your local veterinarian or trusted dog trainer for advice on the next steps to solving the issue.

Dr Julie Ashton is a qualified veterinarian. She runs Life on Four Legs, a Veterinary Behaviour Consultation service, based in Sydney, Australia.

14/01 |

Oops they did it again….

Problem pee-ers are all too common in the feline world and living with one can be frustrating to say the least! Anyone who has ever lived with a cat who is weeing in the house can vouch for how stressful it can be!

Cats can decide to toilet outside the tray for a number of reasons. Often it requires a behavioural consultation to figure out why they are not toileting where they are meant to. However, in the mean time there are a number of great tips that can help make the litter boxes appealing as possible to your furry friend.

For some cats sofas become their chosen toilets!

Litter box top tips!!!

1.Most (not all) cats prefer uncovered Lots of them feel anxious in the enclosed box with only one escape hole.

2. Most cats would choose a tray 1.5x the length of the cat; trays that are too small prevent their normal urinating routines.

3. Cats are fussy, so the tray should be CLEAN at all times! Urine and faeces should be removed asap (ideally as soon as it has been done). Wash the tray with hot water at last once a week and avoid chemicals that can be aversive (at best) or even toxic.

4. Avoid litter liners. Although they make our lives easier, they often catch on a cat’s claws which can put then off entering the tray!

5. Make sure the tray is away from the cat’s food and water and in a quiet location…. Nobody likes to pee with people watching!

6. Give your cat an option of cat litter and avoid changing the litter type if possible. Some cats have a real preference as to what they pee on.

7. Make sure there are enough trays in multi cat house holds, as a general rule of thumb AT LEAST one tray per cat and a spare in different locations of the house.

Is weeing in the house always a behaviour problem?

Not all inappropriate toileting is behavioural, always make sure you get a vet to check your cat if it starts weeing in the house outside it’s tray. Urinary tract infections, stones, cystitis and other medical issues can often show up as seemingly behavioural issues.

If your vet has checked out your cat, you have tried all the litter box top tips and your cat is continuing to wee in the house, then feel free to contact Dr Julie @ Life on Four Legs (or any other veterinary behaviourist). Often the sooner we can have an appointment the easier these problems are to sort!

photo courtesy of www.petmd.com

02/12 |

It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas……

So Christmas is nearly upon us (scarily again!) – this time of year can be full of festive cheer for our furry friends, but please remember to look out for their health at this time.

Christmas can be fun for your furry friends (although I am not sure Brioche agrees!)

Around Christmas time there are lots of things that can keep us vets busy, many of which can easily be avoided, so for top tips on things to avoid this festive season to keep your pet safe read on…

On the first day of Christmas my true love gave to me….

Tick Paralysis

These horrible ticks are grey in colour and are common on Sydney’s Lower North Shore and Northern Beaches as well as the South Coast. Remember to always use tick prevention in your pets no matter where they are in Sydney (as they can appear in places you least expect).

Paralysis tick prevention should be used summer long

On the second day of Christmas my true love gave to me….

Chocolate toxicity

Remember, as delicious as it is to us,chocolate is toxic to dogs. Please contact you vet if your pampered pooch grabs any of the holiday stash to check if they have eaten a dangerous dose!

Dark chocolate is the biggest threat, but any chocolate can cause a problem if enough is eaten! (Picture www.cadbury.com.au)

On the third day of Christmas my true love gave to me…

Heat stoke

Remember our furry friends as temperatures soar in Sydney around Christmas. Always provide them with shade, fresh water and never leave dogs unattended in hot cars.

Avoid walking your dog in the heat of the day, instead opt for evening strolls like Loulou and Dr Julie!

On the fourth day of Christmas my true love gave to me

Macadamia nut poisoning

When planning your festive fare remember macadamia nuts are toxic to dogs and can cause muscle weakness, vomiting and lethargy. Please contact your vet if any nuts are eaten by your dog.

As yummy as they are, macadamia nuts can cause trouble for our furry friends. (photo – www.nuts.com.au)

On the fifth day of Christmas my true love gave to me..

Gastrointestinal surgery!

Remember to keep cooked bones, Christmas decorations and presents away from both dogs and cats. If eaten, these strange objects can get stuck in the windpipe, food tube and anywhere in between the mouth and the bottom in our pets, often needing surgery to be retrieved.

A munch on cooked bones or Christmas decorations can land your pet in hospital – so keep them away! (photo www.petclinicsd.com)

On the sixth day of Christmas my true love gave to me…

Raisin or grape toxicity

Raisins are almost ubiquitous in our Christmas dinners and grapes often make a guest appearance on cheese boards. Remember that both raisins and grapes in any quantity (even one or two) can cause kidney failure – so keep the mince pies and Christmas pud away from your furry friends!!!

On the seventh day of Christmas my true love gave to me…

Poinsettia toxicity

Poinsettia are those beautiful red Christmas plants that often adorn our tables at Christmas. Pretty as they are did you know that eating them can result in vomiting and diarrhoea? And the sap is very irritant to animals skin. So keep them separate from your family pet.

Other plants to look out for include pine needles, lilies, holly and mistletoe to name a few.

Poinsettia and other plants can be toxic to pets if eaten. (Picture www.lowes.com)

On the eighth day of Christmas my true love gave to me…

Anxiety

Being a behaviour vet I am acutely aware of the strains we put on our pets at Christmas time. Expecting them to happily accept rowdy parties and long days alone in the house. Always allow your pet somewhere to take themselves away from scary situations and be mindful what effect your plans can have on your dog or cat.

Holiday time can be terrifying for our furry friends with people coming and going and lots of new things to experience.

On the ninth day of Christmas my true love gave to me…

Electrocution

Christmas lights are often just too irresistible for cats and dogs alike. Always keep wires away from sharp teeth as chewing cables can cause both electrical burns and electrocution.

Christmas lights may look pretty but if chewed can be fatal to our furry friends. (picture www.legalsigns.co.uk)

On the tenth day of Christmas my true love gave to me…

Pancreatitis

Eating fatty foods in dogs has been directly linked to the development of pancreatitis – an inflammation of the pancreas causing vomiting, lethargy and abdominal pain. So please refrain from spoiling your pet too much with human food over the holiday season.

Dr Julie’s Christmas ham might be delicious to us, but if too much is consumed pancreatitis might be the result in at risk dogs.

On the eleventh day of Christmas my true love gave to me…

Firework and noise phobia

Please be mindful of fireworks around this holiday season. Provide your pet somewhere safe to hide and comfort them if this helps. If your pet’s anxiety around noises is severe please contact your veterinarian to discuss drug options that may help.

Fireworks may be pretty to us, but they can strike fear into our furry friends 🙁 (picture www.youtube.com)

And finally on the twelfth day of Christmas my true love gave to me…

Batteries…

Batteries are used in many new toys that will be bought around this time. Please keep them away from pets as ingestion can cause burns to the gastrointestinal tract and can be fatal 🙁

Batteries cause more of an issue if chewed on the way down. However ingestion can be fatal so please contact a veterinarian asap if you believe you pet has eaten one. (pic www.boutonveterinaryhospital.com)

So now you know what to look forward to please enjoy a happy healthy festive period with your furry friends 🙂

Dr Julie is a veterinarian and behaviourist and works in Sydney

17/11 |

Help my cat is scratching everything and ruining my house…..!!!

Help… my cat is ruining my sofa, bed, wicker laundry basket (insert prized furniture possession here)! This is a call I receive almost weekly. Why oh why are our furry feline friends so intent on destroying our belongings? Is it out of spite? Malice? Or something else?

Why do cats scratch?

Scratching is a normal feline behaviour and they do it for a number of reasons:

Maintenance of claws –old claw coverings are shed when cats scratch. It also sharpens and shortens the claws.
Stretching – ever notice that a cat will often scratch after it has woken up? It is our equivalent of a satisfying morning stretch!
Muscle maintenance – scratching is a way of keeping their hunting leg muscles in tip top shape.
Marking – scratching provides both a visual signal (the scratches themselves) and a pheromonal signal to other cats. Cats have lots of scent glands between their toes and scratching is a way of saying ‘come read my message over here!’ Scratching behaviour can sometimes increase in times of stress and be seen in ‘socially important’ areas to the cat.

Picking a scratching post

Many commercially available scratching posts are totally unsuitable for cats. When trying to stop your feline scratching your furniture, you need to make sure you have provided them somewhere appropriate to carry out this innate behaviour.

Things to look for:

Sufficient size – the scratching post should be 1.5 x the length of the cat when standing on their hind legs and stretching up.
Sufficiently sturdy – Many scratching posts are flimsy and will wobble when leant on by the cat, which will scare them! Make sure the scratching post can easily take 100% of your cat’s weight.
Consider a horizontal post – some cats prefer horizontal scratching posts – if your cat is scratching your rug think of getting one of these!
Look for a vertical weave – cats like to scratch in vertical motions. Lots of commercially available scratching posts are horizontal (e.g. rope wrapped around a post) – meaning cats can’t get a good grip and will be less likely to use it.
Consider the type of material your cat is enjoying scratching and try to provide this in another setting. Corrugated cardboard, wood, carpet and wicker can all make great scratching posts.

A good scratching post might be all that is needed to stop your lounge looking like this!!!

You can entice your cat to use the new scratching post by using cat nip, dangling wand toys over them and by rewarding them (food and positive interaction) when they scratch the correct area.During this retraining time, they should not be allowed access to the problem area.

If you have followed my top tips for picking a scratching post and are still having issues with a scratching moggy, contact me for more help. Scratching can be a symptom of an anxiety disorder, so it is important not to ignore it!

10/09 |

Don’t Panic!!!

Have you ever had a panic attack? No? Has your pet?

A lovely client of mine emailed a video of her dog during the big Sydney storm we had two weeks ago. There is no other way to describe it except for a panic attack. The poor dog was running around, howling, drooling and trying to break down a door to get out of the house. The video ended with him vomiting in the house ☹ Nobody would argue that this dog was distressed.

Now, not all animals will show such an intense response – but studies suggest up to 50% of our household dogs are scared of thunder. This can develop for various reasons such as a genetic sensitivity, a traumatic experience during a thunder storm, social transmission (learning from another storm-phobic animal) or as a result of a generalized anxiety disorder.

www.ericteske.com

What can we do?

Prevention

Studies have shown that positive exposure to sounds including fireworks, engine noises and thunder in the first 6 months of life can be protective against phobia development at a later stage. 1

Playing with your puppy while introducing these sounds means they accept the noise as normal and so are less likely to develop fear responses as they get older.

Introducing puppies in a positive way to noises such as thunder may prevent a phobia developing

Too late for prevention – so what next?

If you already have a dog with a storm phobia it is not a lost cause!

Medication

For some dogs, like my client’s dog above, the phobia is too intense and medication helps him cope with any up-coming storms. If your dog is getting very stressed talk to your veterinarian or vet behaviourist about whether medication is the right choice for your pet.

Consider getting an Adaptil diffuser or collar to use on your dog.

Manage the situation

When a storm hits there are a number of things you can do to help your dog:
• Minimise exposure to lightning by closing the blinds or curtains.
• If your pet wants to hide, let it. If hiding is their preferred choice of coping, provide them with a box or a place to hide.
• Try distracting your pet with treats and a game. You could even throw a ‘thunder party’! Get your pet excited, play with them, throw treats and make the storm event a great time.
• Consider a thunder jacket.These can help some dogs by making them feel safe and secure.
• Play music.Either calming music such as classical, or even music with a distracting beat (such as rap – Snoop Dog) are anecdotally the best.
• If cuddles help, go ahead! Remember you can’t reinforce fear! If a cuddle helps calm your dog down then go for it.

And then?

The ultimate aim of managing a dog with storm phobia is to stop the phobic responses entirely or at least reduce the intensity of their panic.

We do this by going through a process of desensitisation and counter conditioning. This basically means we take the thing they are scared of (loud thunder noise), make it small, so small that they don’t react fearfully (by playing it very quietly) and pair it with something good (a yummy treat or a game). This is a slow process, but it enables us to teach the dog that thunder isn’t so scary and is actually something pretty good – as it predicts the arrival of treats!

As with all behaviour modification, it is crucial that this process is undertaken in a controlled, consistent manner So for further information on how to make your pet’s life that bit better contact me at Julie@Lifeonfourlegs.com.au.

1. (Appleby DL, Bradshaw JWS, Casey RA. Relationship between aggressive and avoidance behaviours by dogs and their experience in the first 6 months of life. Vet Rc 2002; 150:434-8)

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